14-day mountain bike trip through the Pamirs via the Bartang route

With a stopover in Istanbul, we reach Dushanbe in the early morning hours. After transferring to our comfortable hotel, we will rest and start our tour of the capital in the early afternoon. Dushanbe is the Persian word for Monday, named after the Monday market where the city was founded. Nowadays, the bazaar is open daily, and we will explore it together. We will end the day with dinner in a traditional teahouse.

The journey to Rushan, the starting point of our cycling tour, takes us two days in off-road vehicles (Toyota Landcruiser or similar) along the legendary Pamir Highway. Today we will drive the first 380 km segment to Kalai Khumb. We pass by the Nurek Reservoir and have lunch at a teahouse by the roadside. After lunch, we reach the first foothills of the Pamirs and immerse ourselves in the spectacular mountain world. Our idyllic guesthouse is located right by the river. 

Another 250 km on the mostly unpaved Pamir Highway lies ahead of us. The route takes us through the deep gorge that the Panj, the border river to Afghanistan, has carved into the mountains. In the afternoon, we reach Rushan and prepare our bikes for the start the next day.

Rushan is located at the entrance of the Bartang Valley, which we will follow for 5 days through the high mountains. The Bartang Valley is one of the most spectacular corners of the Pamirs: bar (wide) and tang (narrow) alternate here, allowing us to travel through deeply cut gorges and vast high plateaus. Today we reach the village of Bartang, which shares the same name. There, hundreds of rock paintings await to be discovered by us. We will set up our camp in the neighboring village of Rasuj. In the camp, we have, among other things, two-person tents for individual use, a shower tent, a toilet tent, and a communal tent with chairs and tables.

After our first night in the open air and a hearty breakfast, we are greeted today by a play of colors in nature. Steep rock walls in red, yellow, and gray alternate with the lush green oases of the villages. In Basid, a small village by the roadside, we will visit a shrine in honor of a local saint and take a lunch break. In the afternoon, we will follow the spectacular course of the path through the deeply cut valley to the village of Yapshorv, where we will set up our camp on the outskirts.

A short but crisp stage lies ahead of us. On the way to Savnob, after a few kilometers, the Bartang Valley opens up and reveals views of the surrounding snow-capped peaks. We have arrived in the wide part of the valley (called "bar"). A steep nameless pass with about 400 meters of elevation gain is the last hurdle before we reach Savnob. In the afternoon, we explore the village and visit its ancient fortifications, the shrine, and the nearby caves. We spend the night in a traditional Pamir house.

We regularly bring donations to the school in the village. If anyone has space in their luggage, feel free to help out. Just contact us before the trip to see what is needed.

After an extensive breakfast, it's time to say goodbye to Savnob. The hospitality and warmth of the people in this remote mountain village will stay in our memories for a long time. After 35 km and a mountain pass crossing (about 300 m elevation gain), we reach Gudara, the last settlement in the valley. There, we enter the Badakhshan National Park. For the next 150 km, we will only encounter a few shepherds. The increasingly deteriorating path, with loose gravel, sand dunes, and smaller river crossings, leads us through the wide valley of the Tanimas River. Today, we will set up our camp on a lush green meadow and end the evening by the campfire.

Well adjusted to the height, we leave the valleys and ascend into the Eastern Pamir. Shortly after starting, the climb begins over the steep track to the Kök Jar Pass (3,760m). After 600 meters of elevation gain and a short descent, the Pamir Plateau opens up before us. The seemingly endless expanse and the breathtaking sight of the over 6,000m high Muzkol range in the distance make it clear why the Pamir is also called the "Roof of the World." We set up our last campsite in a tent by the Kokuibel River, which winds through the landscape like a green ribbon with its surrounding meadows.

In the morning, we catch our first glimpse of Lake Karakul (3,923m) in the distance. It is the largest body of water in Tajikistan and, despite its altitude, is home to a variety of animals and plants. Around noon, we reach the Pamir Highway. Unusual for mountain bikers, but after 5 days and 300 km of gravel and scree paths, we are happy about the well-paved road here and roll downhill for another 20 kilometers to Karakul. There, we check into our Kyrgyz guesthouse. Not only does the landscape change completely in the Eastern Pamir, but so do the people and culture. In Karakul, only Kyrgyz people live. In the afternoon, we have time for walks through the village or to relax with a cup of tea in our cozy guesthouse with a Banja (a traditional sauna-like bathing room).

Today we have the king stage ahead of us. The Pamir Highway runs along the Chinese border over the Uy Buloq Pass up to the Tajik border post. After leaving Tajikistan, we ascend to the Kyzyl Art Pass, the highest point of our journey at 4,250m. The hardest part is done: time for a pass photo against the magnificent backdrop of the glaciers of the Trans-Alai range. Our legs can now relax a bit on the descent to the Kyrgyz border post, 20 km away. And once again, the landscape changes completely. After the border, we dive into the vast grass steppes of Kyrgyzstan, where herds of horses and sheep graze and yurts stand scattered. In Sary-Tash, we reach our guesthouse in the late afternoon.

Our last stage takes us to the foot of the 7,134 m high Peak Lenin. We drive through the expansive Alai High Valley, bordered by the Pamir to the south and the Alai Mountains to the north. With its countless peaks over 5,000 and 6,000 meters, it offers a breathtaking backdrop for our today's stage. In the early afternoon, we then get a view of Peak Lenin, which we won't lose sight of on our way to the yurt camp.

Done! Eight stages and nearly 500 km are behind us. It's time to celebrate! At the yurt camp at the foot of Peak Lenin, we are well taken care of, with large heated yurts and even a Banja providing a bit of comfort.

"Relax and enjoy" is the motto of our 12th day. We have the opportunity to explore the surroundings on foot or on horseback, or simply enjoy the day at camp. Today we also pack our bikes into the boxes and suitcases that we have transported on the vehicles during the tour. Over a good Kyrgyz dinner in the heated yurt, we enjoy the last evening in nature.

It is time to say goodbye to the Pamir. We drive on the Pamir Highway to Osh through the Alai Mountains. With its red sandstone cliffs, meadows, and forest areas, it offers a magnificent backdrop for our journey. In Osh, we have time for a city walk with a visit to the bazaar to buy last souvenirs. Over a shared meal, we let the journey pass by us. In the evening, we then take the plane to Bishkek and check into a hotel.

In the early morning hours, we will be taken to the airport and fly back home via Istanbul.

Possible extension options from Bishkek, e.g.:

• 1 Day Bishkek – city tour with market visit

• 1 day Bishkek + 3 days Ala Archa National Park with hiking and climbing a four-thousander • 14 days cycling and hiking tour in Kyrgyzstan

Possible extensions from Osh  • 3 to 10 days Uzbekistan trip from Osh

e.g. Fergana Valley, Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara

Individual Kyrgyzstan or Uzbekistan trip  - we are happy to advise on individual tours.