17-day mountain bike trip through the Pamirs via the Wakhan route

With a stopover in Istanbul, we reach Dushanbe in the early morning hours. After transferring to our comfortable hotel, we will first rest and then start our tour of the capital in the early afternoon. Dushanbe is the Persian word for Monday, named after the Monday market where the city was founded. Nowadays, the bazaar is open daily, and we will explore it together. We will end the day with dinner in a traditional teahouse.

The journey to Rushan, the starting point of our cycling tour, takes us two days in off-road vehicles (Toyota Landcruiser or similar) along the legendary Pamir Highway. Today we drive the first 380 km segment to Kalai Khumb. We pass by the Nurek Reservoir and have lunch at a teahouse by the roadside. After lunch, we reach the first foothills of the Pamirs and immerse ourselves in the spectacular mountain landscape. Our idyllic guesthouse is located right by the river. 

Another 250 km on the mostly unpaved Pamir Highway lies ahead of us. The route takes us through the deep gorge that the Panj, the border river to Afghanistan, has carved into the mountains. In the afternoon, we reach Khorog and prepare our bikes for the start the next day.

In Khorog, all roads meet that lead through the Pamir. We are heading south on the provincial road through the Wakhan. This means we are leaving the Pamir Highway, which we will not drive again for another eight days. Our destination is the hot spring “Garm Chachma“, about 350 meters above the river valley. The 60-degree hot spring is enclosed in an open basin. From here, there is a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. We are accommodated in the simple guesthouse of the facility.

Today begins with a departure back down into the Panj Valley. Along mostly flat terrain by the river, we reach Ishkashim. On the way, we experience what so profoundly impressed Marco Polo in his time, the mighty mountains of the Hindu Kush, which become increasingly visible in the south and repeatedly compel us to stop in awe of their beauty and power. In Ishkashim, we sleep in a cozy Pamir guesthouse. Enjoying delicious local cuisine, we savor the evening.

In Ishkashim we have arrived at the Panj Bend. The river has reached its southernmost point here and bends to the east. We follow the river along the impressive backdrop of the Hindu Kush. In good weather, we soon catch sight of the literally highest honor for the two classics of communist doctrine, Peak Marx (6,723 m) and Peak Engels (6,507 m). Along the way, the ruins of the Khaka fortress are also waiting for us today. After a hearty lunch break, we cross two smaller passes before we ascend the final climb of 5 km and 300 m to our guesthouse. Close by are the hot springs of Bibi-Fatima, where we can bathe after our

From the garden of our guesthouse, we enjoy the beautiful view over the Panjtal during breakfast. The nearby fortress of Yamchun invites exploration in the morning. It stands at 3,000m above the Panj Valley and is one of the largest fortifications in the Pamir, measuring 900 x 300 meters. Built in 300 BC, it bears witness to the extensive history that this valley has experienced as a trade route.

On the relatively short distance of 45km to Hissor, we can expect numerous other interesting stops: the Pamir Museum of Muborak Vakhani, a Buddhist monastery, and various shrines. In Hissor, we are accommodated in a typical Pamir guesthouse.

Hissor is located at the confluence of Wakhan and Pamir. Together they form the Panj from here. Geographically, this is also where the actual Wakhan Corridor begins. From here, our tour continues towards East Pamir. A steep ascent of about 300 meters awaits us right in the morning. From the pass summit, we will be rewarded with a sensational view over the large river delta. With a bit of luck, we will see caravans across the river in the further course. Below the Khargush Pass, we will spend our first night in a tent today.

After breakfast, we drive to the border and guard station Kargush, which is 15 kilometers away. Here, the paths diverge. Following the main road, we ascend to the Kargush Pass (4,344m) of the same name. However, we follow the road east into the Zor Kul Nature Reserve. The Zor Kul Lake will be our destination for today. The way there leads along the Zor Kul River through beautiful river meadows and the expansive high plateau, bordered to the south by the over five-thousand-meter-high mountains of the small Pamirs. Piece by piece, we gain altitude. The panorama of the small Pamir with its 5,000-meter peaks and the feeling of getting closer to the end of the world make this stage an unforgettable experience.

After a hearty breakfast in the camp, we continue cycling along the Zor Kul Lake to Kuk Dzhigit Lake, where we take a lunch break. By now, we have entered the realm of Marco Polo sheep and, with binoculars and a bit of luck, can observe the rare animals. During the morning, we also pass by an old Soviet military and radar station, see petroglyphs, and meet individual herders. After lunch, we reach the highest point of our journey. We must cross an unnamed pass at 4,420 meters. Due to the altitude already reached of over 4,200 meters, the ascent is less strenuous than expected. After a 15-kilometer descent on a gravel road, we reach our guesthouse at the hot springs of Jarti Gumbez, marking the end of our last cycling stage. We have now also entered the Kyrgyz part of the Pamirs. Accordingly, our hosts are Kyrgyz, who provide us with a delicious dinner of Kyrgyz home cooking. The highlight is the small in-house “spa area” with a swimming pool. We are accommodated in shared rooms.

"The Serengeti of Central Asia" could be another name for the Zor Kul Nature Park. Here lives the largest population of Marco Polo sheep. To observe the animals, we drive early in the morning before breakfast into the remote side valleys towards the Chinese border. With a bit of luck, we can observe the protected wild sheep. A pair of binoculars and/or a telephoto lens are very helpful here. Spending time in this remote area is worthwhile: wide valleys, high glaciated mountains, and absolute silence contribute to relaxation and inner peace. After lunch at the guesthouse, we let the day wind down in a relaxed manner. The "Pamir Spa" is perfect for that.

Today we are traveling with the team to the Kyrgyz border and with our Kyrgyz team further towards the vicinity of Pik Lenin. The drive through East Pamir offers numerous highlights, so we will set off early. Along the way, we will stop at the Soviet Shorbulog Observatory, where we can see the 7,509-meter-high Muztagata in good weather. We will continue to Murgabh, the provincial capital of East Pamir, and over the Ak Baital Pass (4,655 m), the highest point of the Pamir Highway. By noon, we will reach Karakul, the last village in Pamir, located by the largest body of water in Tajikistan at over 4,000 meters. After a lengthy break in Karakul, we will head to the Kyrgyz border and bid farewell to our Tajik team. On the other side, we will be welcomed by our Kyrgyz team. The drive over the Kyzyl Art Pass (4,282m) takes us through a breathtaking glacier landscape down into the Kyrgyz steppe and a completely different world. Our destination is a small guesthouse near the Pik Lenin Base Camps in Sary Morgul.

Today we have the king stage ahead of us. The Pamir Highway runs along the Chinese border over the Uy Buloq Pass up to the Tajik border post. After leaving Tajikistan, we ascend to the Kyzyl Art Pass, the highest point of our journey at 4,250m. The hardest part is done: time for a pass photo against the breathtaking backdrop of the glaciers of the Trans-Alai range. Our legs can now relax a bit on the descent to the Kyrgyz border post, which is 20 km away. And once again, the landscape changes completely. After the border, we dive into the vast grass steppes of Kyrgyzstan, where herds of horses and sheep graze and yurts stand scattered. In Sary-Tash, we reach our guesthouse in the late afternoon.

Our last stage takes us to the foot of the 7,134 m high Peak Lenin. We drive through the expansive Alai High Valley, bordered by the Pamir to the south and the Alai Mountains to the north. With its countless peaks over 5,000 and 6,000 meters, it provides a breathtaking backdrop for our today's stage. In the early afternoon, we then get a view of Peak Lenin, which we will not lose sight of on our way to the yurt camp.

After about an hour's drive, we reach the yurt camp at Pik Lenin this morning. "Relax and Enjoy" is the motto of our last day in the high mountains. We have the opportunity to explore the surroundings on foot or on horseback (e.g., to the base camp of Pik Lenin and further to the Onion Meadow) or simply enjoy the day in the camp. With a good Kyrgyz dinner in the heated yurt, we enjoy the last evening in nature.

Today we say goodbye to the Pamir. We drive on the Pamir Highway to Osh through the Alai Mountains. With its red sandstone cliffs, meadows, and forest areas, it offers a magnificent backdrop for our journey. In Osh, we have time for a city walk with a market visit to buy last souvenirs. Over a shared meal, we let the journey pass by us. In the evening, we take the plane to Bishkek and will spend the night at the hotel there.

In the early morning hours, we will be taken to the airport and fly back home via Istanbul.