17-day mountain bike trip through the Pamirs via the Wakhan route

With a layover in Istanbul, we arrive in Dushanbe in the early morning hours. After transferring to our comfortable hotel, we will rest and then start our tour of the capital in the early afternoon. Dushanbe is the Persian word for Monday, named after the Monday market where the city was founded. Nowadays, the bazaar is open daily, and we will explore it together. We will end the day with dinner in a traditional teahouse.

The journey to Rushan, the starting point of our cycling tour, takes us two days in off-road vehicles (Toyota Landcruiser or similar) along the legendary Pamir Highway. Today we will drive the first 380 km segment to Kalai Khumb. We pass by the Nurek Reservoir and have lunch in a teahouse by the roadside. After lunch, we reach the first foothills of the Pamirs and immerse ourselves in the spectacular mountain landscape. Our idyllic guesthouse is located right by the river. 

Another 250 km on the mostly unpaved Pamir Highway lies ahead of us. The route takes us through the deep gorge that the Panj, the border river to Afghanistan, has carved into the mountains. In the afternoon, we reach Khorog and prepare our bikes for the start the next day.

In Khorog, all roads meet that lead through the Pamir. We are heading south on the provincial road through Wakhan. This means we are leaving the Pamir Highway, which we will not drive again for another eight days. Our destination is the hot spring 'Garm Chachma', about 350 meters above the river valley. The 60-degree hot spring is contained in an open basin. From here, there is a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. We are accommodated in the simple guesthouse of the facility.

Today begins with a departure back down into the Panj Valley. Along mostly flat terrain beside the river, we reach Ishkashim. On the way, we experience what so profoundly impressed Marco Polo in his time: the mighty mountains of the Hindu Kush, which become increasingly visible in the south and repeatedly compel us to stop in awe of their beauty and power. In Ishkashim, we sleep in a cozy Pamir guesthouse. Enjoying delicious local cuisine, we savor the evening.

In Ishkashim we have arrived at the Panj Bend. The river has reached its southernmost point here and bends to the east. We follow the course of the river along the impressive backdrop of the Hindu Kush. In good weather, we soon catch sight of the literally highest tribute to the two classics of communist doctrine, Pik Marx (6,723 m) and Pik Engels (6,507 m). Along the way, the ruins of the Khaka fortress are also waiting for us today. After a hearty lunch break, we cross two smaller passes before we tackle the final ascent of 5 km and 300 m to our guesthouse. Very close by are the hot springs of Bibi-Fatima, where we can bathe after our

From the garden of our guesthouse, we enjoy the beautiful view over the Panjtal during breakfast. The nearby Yamchun fortress invites exploration in the morning. It stands at 3,000m above the Panj Valley and is one of the largest fortress complexes in the Pamir, measuring 900 x 300 meters. Built in 300 BC, it bears witness to the extensive history that this valley has experienced as a trade route.

On the relatively short distance of 45km to Hissor, we still expect numerous other interesting stops: the Pamir Museum of Muborak Vakhani, a Buddhist monastery, and various shrines. In Hissor, we are accommodated in a typical Pamir guesthouse.

Hissor is located at the confluence of Wakhan and Pamir. Together they form the Panj from here. Geographically, this is also where the actual Wakhan Corridor begins. From here, our tour continues towards East Pamir. A steep ascent of about 300 meters awaits us early in the morning. From the pass summit, we will be rewarded with a sensational view over the large river delta. With a bit of luck, we might see caravans across the river later on. Below the Khargush Pass, today we will spend our first night in a tent.

After breakfast, we drive to the border and guard station Kargush, which is 15 kilometers away. Here, the paths diverge. Following the main road, we ascend to the Kargush Pass (4,344m) of the same name. However, we follow the road east into the Zor Kul Nature Reserve. The Zor Kul Lake will be our destination for today. The route there leads along the Zor Kul River through beautiful river meadows and the expansive high plateau, bordered to the south by the over five-thousand-meter-high mountains of the small Pamirs. Piece by piece, we gain altitude. The panorama of the small Pamir with its 5,000-meter peaks and the feeling of getting closer to the end of the world make this stage an unforgettable experience.

After a hearty breakfast in the camp, we continue cycling along the Zor Kul Lake to the Kuk Dzhigit Lake, where we take a lunch break. By now, we have entered the realm of Marco Polo sheep and, with binoculars and a bit of luck, we can observe the rare animals. During the morning, we also pass by an old Soviet military and radar station, see petroglyphs, and meet individual herders. After lunch, we reach the highest point of our journey. We have to cross an unnamed pass at 4,420 meters. Due to the altitude we have already reached of over 4,200 meters, the ascent is less strenuous than expected. After a 15-kilometer descent on a gravel road, we reach our guesthouse at the hot springs of Jarti Gumbez, marking the end of our last cycling stage. We have now also arrived in the Kyrgyz part of the Pamirs. Accordingly, our hosts are Kyrgyz, who provide us with a delicious dinner of Kyrgyz home cooking. The highlight is the small in-house “spa area” with a swimming pool. We are accommodated in shared rooms.

After the strenuous stages through the Wakhan Valley, we are taking time today for a "bike break". Jarti Gumbez offers the perfect opportunity for this. It is located far in the east of the Pamirs near the Chinese border. Due to the solitude and the nature reserve, there are the world's largest populations of Marco Polo sheep here. A reason to set off early this morning by car before breakfast to hopefully observe the animals. The beauty of nature and the solitude of this place will never be forgotten.  

After lunch, we continue by off-road vehicle to Murgabh, which is 90 km away. We make a stop at the old Soviet Shorbulog Observatory. In good weather, we can see the 7,509-meter-high Muztagata from there. It is located in China and its name translates to "Father of Icebergs". The view from the "Observatory Hill" (4,300 m) is gigantic. In the afternoon, we reach our guesthouse in Murgabh. Here we will again be treated to delicious Kyrgyz cuisine.

Today, the highest point of the journey is on the agenda. The Ak Baital Pass (4,655 m) over which the Pamir Highway continues across the East Pamir Plateau to Karakul. To reach the village located 140 km away, we first leave the bikes in the vehicle and cover nearly 70 kilometers by car. After an hour of transfer, we start our cycling stage over the highest point of the journey. Our destination, Karakul, is located at the largest body of water in Tajikistan at over 4,000 meters. A small Banja and delicious food strengthen us after the strenuous stage. Ahead of us lies the king stage of the journey the next day.

Today we have the king stage ahead of us. The Pamir Highway runs along the Chinese border over the Uy Buloq Pass up to the Tajik border post. After leaving Tajikistan, we ascend to the Kyzyl Art Pass, the highest point of our journey at 4,282m. The hardest part is done: time for a pass photo against the legendary backdrop of the glaciers of the Trans-Alai range. Our legs can relax a bit on the descent to the Kyrgyz border post, 20 km away. And once again, the landscape changes completely. After the border, we dive into the vast grass steppes of Kyrgyzstan, where herds of horses and sheep graze and yurts stand scattered. In Sary-Tash, we reach our cozy guesthouse in the late afternoon, our destination for the cycling trip. It's time to toast! We have crossed the Pamir under our own power. A true once-in-a-lifetime experience!

Today we are taking it a bit easier. After a hearty breakfast, we pack the bicycles into the boxes and bags that we have transported on our support vehicles during the tour. This applies, of course, only to those who are traveling with their own bicycle.

As a conclusion to our cycling trip, we have one last real highlight awaiting us: the ride to the foot of the 7,134-meter-high Peak Lenin. There, we will settle into our heated yurts amidst a magnificent high mountain landscape. The yurt camp takes great care of our culinary needs, allowing us to relax and enjoy the impressive scenery in the afternoon.

In the morning, we have another opportunity to explore the impressive mountain scenery around Pik Lenin on foot. Depending on desire, fitness, and time, various hikes are available: to the 4,150 m high Travellers Pass (about 5–6 hours for the round trip), to Panorama Peak (about 2–4 hours, depending on the route), or to Pik Lenin Base Camp (about 1.5 hours). Those who prefer a more relaxed pace can unwind at the yurt camp and enjoy the magnificent view of the surrounding mountains and the mighty peak.

After lunch, it's time to say goodbye to the fascinating mountain world of the Pamirs. Our journey takes us along the Pamir Highway through the Alai Mountains to Osh. Along the way, we are accompanied by impressive landscapes with red rock formations, vast meadows, and wooded slopes. In Osh, we settle into our guesthouse in the city center. While enjoying Kyrgyz specialties, we end the day comfortably and appreciate the warm hospitality.

Osh, one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, provides a charming backdrop for our last day together. In the morning, we explore the city on a walk. The sacred Suleiman-Too, the most famous landmark of Osh, is located very close to our accommodation. Afterwards, there is time for a shared lunch and a visit to the lively bazaar, where we can look for last-minute souvenirs. In the evening, we will take the plane to Bishkek.

In the early morning hours, we will be taken to the airport and fly back home via Istanbul.

In the early morning hours, the transfer takes us to the airport in Osh. From there, we fly back home via Istanbul – with many unforgettable impressions from the fascinating mountain world of the Pamirs and from Kyrgyzstan.

Possible extension options from Bishkek, e.g.:

• 1 day Bishkek – city tour with market visit

• 1 day Bishkek + 3 days Ala Archa National Park with hiking and climbing a four-thousander • 14 days cycling and hiking tour in Kyrgyzstan

• 3 to 10 days Uzbekistan trip from Osh, e.g. Fergana Valley, Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara

Individual Kyrgyzstan or Uzbekistan trip - we are happy to advise you on individual tours.