12-day mountain bike journey through the Lesser Caucasus

We arrive in Yerevan in the early morning hours. After transferring to our hotel in the city center, we first treat ourselves to a few hours of rest, enjoy breakfast, and take care of the bike setup before we dive into the first highlight together in the late morning: a city tour of Armenia's vibrant capital. Designed as a Soviet planned city, it impresses among other things with its buildings clad in red tuff, which have earned it the nickname "Pink City." With a diverse restaurant and bar scene, the lively metropolis invites exploration, enjoyment, and relaxation both day and night. An additional night at the beginning or end of the trip in Yerevan is recommended for those who also enjoy exploring a city!

Our tour starts at Lake Arpi in the far northwest of the country. After about 3 hours of driving from Yerevan, we reach the starting point in the midst of vast landscapes with the tour vehicle. After a strengthening picnic, we start on a little-used old asphalt road, where we turn into the idyllic valley of the Akhuryan and follow the river on a jeep track. Our campsite by the water is perfect for settling in. A family from the village takes care of the delicious catering.

Option: With about 500 additional meters of elevation, we climb Seb (2,449 m), a solitary "hill" from which we can see the entire surroundings, and from here we drive directly to the camp.

In the first kilometers, we continue to follow the idyllic valley of the Akhuryan River. From here, we first use simple asphalt roads from village to village and then continue on jeep tracks, slowly making our way up to the Karakhach Pass (2,272m). With a wonderful view, we then travel over more than 25 kilometers until noon. After the break, we dive back into the mountainous landscape and drive over hilly terrain to the then (during Soviet times) and still very popular spa town of Stepanavan.

This stage offers not only spectacular landscapes but also interesting cultural sights. From Stepanavan, we follow the Dzoraget River to the medieval Hnevank Monastery and travel deep into the Arevatsag Dsor – translated as 'Gorge of the Sunrise'. The impressive landscape invites frequent photo stops. Finally, we reach the stunning Debed Canyon via a dirt road. After a final ascent, we arrive at the village of Dsegh. In the old village school, Vladimir has set up his guesthouse. This place exudes charm – and Vladimir treats us to good food and warm Armenian hospitality.

Today marks the conclusion of the first part of our journey. We start in Dsegh at 1,250 m and travel through the Aghstafa Valley towards Dilijan. Along the way, we follow the old connecting road, which offers wonderful views of the valley and the surrounding mountains. A relaxed stage where we can enjoy the landscape of Northern Armenia. In the afternoon, we reach Dilijan, a traditional mountain spa in the midst of Dilijan National Park, often referred to as the Switzerland of Armenia. From here, a transfer takes us to the town of Chkalovka, about 50 km away, right by Lake Sevan. There we can relax after the day on the bike and enjoy the evening by the lake.

Option: Those seeking a significant challenge can cross the Bovakar Mountains directly to Dilijan instead of taking the valley route. We also start in Dsegh and make our way through initially wooded areas and past small farms up to remote high pastures via agricultural paths. We reach the pass at 2,750 m in the early afternoon. Once at the top, we are rewarded with a breathtaking view over large parts of Northern Armenia. Afterwards, a 16 km long, demanding descent awaits us down to Dilijan, which is located 1,500 m lower.

Today we start relaxed with a breakfast in our small accommodation right by Lake Sevan. Only about 15 kilometers away is the impressive Sevanavank Monastery located on a peninsula. There, we will dive into the history and culture of Armenia together. In the afternoon, Lake Sevan is all ours: swimming, relaxing, and enjoying the special atmosphere by the water.

Option: Those who want to ride a bit more today can circle the Lchasar volcanoes on the way back. In total, it will be about 50 kilometers and 500 meters of elevation.

Part two of our mountain biking adventure takes us through the volcanic world of the Geghama Mountains. We shorten the most challenging section of the stage with a transfer. This saves us about 30 kilometers and 1,000 meters of elevation, and we only get back on the bike around noon. This leaves plenty of time to enjoy the impressive landscape of the Geghama Mountains without the stage becoming too much of a challenge. Our goal is the camp at the foot of the extinct volcano Azhdahak at 3,200 meters. The view and the solitary mountain world more than compensate for the strenuous ascent.

Option: Those seeking a challenge can ride the entire route by bike. The path leads through the initially gently rising foothills of the volcanic mountain range, where steep ramps must be conquered repeatedly. Sometimes we roll over pleasantly rideable meadow paths, sometimes over stony trails. To reach the camp located at 3,200 meters at the foot of Azhdahak, a real challenge awaits us.

Another impressive stage awaits us today. The first half of the day takes us further through the barren highlands of the Geghama Mountains, continuously at nearly 3,000 meters. Along the way, we can see millennia-old petroglyphs on the shiny volcanic rock. In the afternoon, we enjoy the over 25 kilometers long and 1,200 meters descent back to Lake Sevan in the cozy village of Nerkin Getashen. A truly cozy accommodation and once again delicious Armenian cuisine await us.

We begin the last stage of our journey with an ascent back towards the Geghama Mountains. We turn south and follow an old Silk Road route for about 20 km on a high plateau. After lunch, we turn onto the paved connection road Martuni-Getap and after a short climb reach the 2,410 m high Selim Pass. The fantastic panorama opens up the view into the valley of the Arpa River and the south of Armenia. A border between two worlds: the rugged highlands of the mountains and the warm south. This is how travelers felt who rested here at the caravanserai directly at the pass hundreds of years ago. After about 30 kilometers of descent, we now arrive in the cradle of Armenian winemaking. It gets warmer and a landscape of red rocks and green vineyards welcomes us!

Option: For all sporty drivers, we have explored an alternative route through the Vardenik Mountains. We drive about 15 kilometers east on village roads to Vardenik and then turn into the mountains. We follow a well-drivable path (broken asphalt, gravel, meadow) for about 15 kilometers to a remote mountain village and another 10 kilometers along an old mountain road to the 3,070 m high unnamed pass. The approximately 40 kilometers and 2,200 meters of elevation drop is well-drivable after a short stretch of loose gravel and promises a spectacular end to the tour.

In Areni, we enjoy the conclusion of our journey with culture and wine. We visit the wonderful Noravank Monastery and the impressive "Cave 1", where remnants of the oldest wine production in the world have been found. We end the day with traditionally cooked Khorovatz (shashlik) and house wine at our guesthouse.

On our return journey today to Yerevan, we have a wonderful view of the sacred mountain Ararat for Armenians and visit the famous Khor Virap Monastery. In Yerevan, we have time in the afternoon to pack the bikes (if using our own bike) and for last souvenir shopping. During a joint dinner, we will review this unique adventure trip once again.

In the early morning hours, it's time to say goodbye. We are being taken to the airport. It's time to go back home.